I think that today has been the highlight of the voyage for me! We were treated to an incredible experience, where I feel that we saw the real deal in terms of a welcoming ceremony, or as close as one can come to it these days. We arrived in the Asmat region of New Guinea in the early morning after traversing a sandbar at the mouth of the Eilanden river at high tide. With just about 9 feet of water under the keel, we entered the river and sailed towards the village of Syuru and dropped anchor.
The term Asmat is used to refer both to the people and the region they inhabit. This region spreads across mud flats and mangrove forests with raised boardwalks linking one village to the next. Their houses are built three or more feet above the ground, raised on wooden posts. Historically, they were cannibals and headhunters but now they live on sago palm, fish, and forest game. Or at least that is what we have been told!
I knew something special was going to happen when our zodiacs gathered to all sail in together instead of leaving one by one as we usually do. As we approached the village, we were met by the chief of the village in tribal dress, standing in his dugout longboat. He then gave a signal, and about 40 to 50 longboats filled with the elaborately painted “warriors", young and old, appeared from around a corner and came out two and three at time to greet our flotilla. They surrounded our zodiacs and put on a show of chanting and yelling as they stood in the boats. To say this was impressive is an understatement!
